Breakfast, lunch or dinner, Jolene Restaurant and Bakery at 21 Newington Green, London N16 9PU, is unlikely to be disappointing. The food and the wine are sustainably (in some cases super sustainably) sourced, and it shows. They even have an all-natural wine list. You can spend a lot here but you don’t have to.
The food is mostly small plates of delicious food.
The bread, Foccacia, at its best just as it is and needing no further adornment.
And some simple items probably straight from their edgy cans and jars: Olives, Boquerones, Artichokes Vinaigrette.
And charcuterie: Salame Rosso or fine slivers of Ciccioli, pressed pork shoulder.
A few more complicated plates: Lentils, Mozzarella with broad beans and peas; Octopus with Padron peppers.
And the pastas: Trofie with courgettes and mint, Tagliatelle with mushrooms, garlic and parsley are all very good.
The Pork collar with spring onions and garlic was outstanding.
Despite the small menu, which varies from day to day, it’s difficult to choose. Sharing is a good option here. You just need to choose a few plates you like the sound of and ask the staff for help with how many might be appropriate. The staff are attentive and helpful.
If you have room, there are desserts which include items from the Bakery such as the Chocolate Guinness Cake – we bought some to take home, it’s very, very good.
The place has a nice feel, all muted greys and concrete and no attempt to hide functional stuff, and there are lots of candles, it all works well.
And why Jolene? Apparently after the Dolly Parton song of that name. And Jolene includes the words “my happiness depends on you” which can be found embroidered on the curtains if you look carefully.
