Located on the hillside of Bowness by Lake Windermere, Linthwaite House Hotel is a 1920s building modernised and maintained in great condition. Spacious grounds include a small boating “lake”. Part of the Leeu Collection, the hotel is one of a group of exclusive hotels, most of which are in Franschhoek, South Africa. Those influences are evident in some of the art and artifacts which decorate the communal areas of this hotel.
The Journey
The journey to Linthwaite House began in North West Norfolk, heading north through the flat farming agricultural lands of Lincolnshire, not especially exciting until nearing the Yorkshire border at the Humber Bridge: itself an impressive construction. Then a more undulating countryside starts to inspire more interest. Into the Yorkshire Dales. Northern England is as beautiful as any countryside in the world perhaps – with the Moors, the Yorkshire Dales and then to the West the Lake District. Those Dales are so sparsely populated – excluding the ever-present sheep – and there is a natural order about things, no blots on the landscape. Man has certainly not ruined it, but unusually has enhanced it. The walls dividing the hillsides, not mathematically but still neatly, small and larger valleys, huge drama and soothing quiet. There is little industry evident, avoiding the bigger towns and cities of Yorkshire, on the drive North and then West, via Richmond, to the lakes. There is a type about the villages and market towns, all with squares or greens, and everything of that grey stone. The people clearly look after things, taking pride for example in the neatly cut grass verges in the villages. The Dales are not just endless, rolling and beautiful, they are simple and unspoilt.
Introduced to the Lake District via Kendal, where the mostly white houses contrast with those in the neighbouring Dales, the journey to Linthwaite House produced a change in structure of the scenery, but still plenty of sheep. It is obvious quickly that this area is more commercialised, the tourist industry being its life in reality.
Accessing the area around Linthwaite House
Linthwaite House is an excellent base from which to explore the lakes. Windermere is the largest and most commercialised of all the lakes: Bowness, Windermere (the town) and Ambleside seem to blend into each other on the East side of the lake. The lakeside is the most interesting for its water activities, cruising, kayaking and paddle boarding for example. The typically “seaside” town centres were bustling with tourists. But there are little gems such as Blackwell House, an outstanding arts and crafts house, with a personal history.
Ullswater is an easy drive, at least in distance terms: the “mountain” route through the Kirkstone Pass is memorable, low clouds threatening visibility adds a thrill factor to the meander through the fairly barren terrain, but striking scenery. The Ullswater lakeside is relatively quiet and unspoilt. But for the most popular scenic stops – whether waterfalls such as at Aira Force or simply good hiking terrain – parking can be a problem, and it’s frustrating to reach the planned destination to find no spaces. That is a risk factor in most areas.
Derwent Water and Borrowdale are a similar distance from Windemere as Ullswater, and a good round trip is Ullswater, Keswick, Borrowdale and back to Ambleside and Bowness via St John’s Beck. From Ambleside around the corner on the way to Coniston is Langdale, hills and valleys which are said to personify the lake district. Coniston water, and the small lakes such as Grasmere are good walking spots and perhaps less busy. Grasmere village is charming, the home of gingerbread and Wordsworth’s place. Crowds do however gather. All these places are in easy reach from Linthwaite House.
Staying at Linthwaite House Hotel
The greeting is a genuine welcome and a “how can I help” approach, including for luggage assistance. In fact, a stand-out feature of the hotel is the friendly and helpful attitude of all who work there. The protocols for Covid security and their execution are as non-invasive as possible, while observing sensible distancing and cleansing. Theirs is a professional operation.
The restaurant is a good size, well-spaced out but warm. Food is mostly locally sourced with fresh farm deliveries daily. The menu provides reasonable choices but, being thankfully not very long, it may prove a little samey for dinner every night over an extended stay of more than a few days. Bar food is served from noon, all day into the evening and the menu caters for many tastes and includes smaller and simpler dishes than the restaurant offering: a handy facility for explorers arriving back at random times. Weather permitting, drinks and snacks on the terrace looking out over the lake and onto the surrounding hills is inviting. Outdoor features include some striking statues and other sculptures, with some South African influence.
The accommodation is spacious enough, and comfortable, with quality finishes. There is easy checking in and out. A few rooms are not in the main house, which may be a drawback in less good weather, but a club car service mitigates that. It may not have those 5-star features such as a large pool and spa, but there are probably few better places to stay in the Lake District for comfort and style.
The journey home – back in time for lockdown
The journey back from Windermere was via the Peak District. A bit whistle-stop, it took in the River Derwent and the related valleys, again stunning scenery, a bit of a combination of the Lake District and the Dales; and the amazing Chatsworth House. The house and its gardens and water features – and extras such as its farm shop – must make this country estate, while commercialised, and so popular, one of the best in England. The views, stretching way into the distance, and the magnificence of the house façade, and its interiors, make this a full day’s trip. Its main restaurant means a picnic is not required, though may be nice: it provides quality food, local produce and professional staff. Worth a visit for a meal in nice surrounds of itself. The beauty and history of England are well represented by the Dales, the Lakes and the Peaks, and for a first-time visitor they are an eye-opener as to why England can be compared to any country in the world for its sheer natural environmental variety, wonderfully preserved and unspoilt.
